Beaches of Denmark

Green's Pool for Shark-Free Swimming

Elephant Rocks

Today we took some time to see the sights in our local area. Denmark is famed for it's beautiful beaches, and we found ourselves wishing it was summertime so that we could swim in the lovely sheltered coves. We visted the famous Green Pools, protected area where snorklers and swimmers are mercifully protected from sharks. Though I lamented not getting to Rottnest Island, a young 32 year old Texan was mauled by a Great White Shark in an area previously considered safe for swimming. There were four deaths from Great White attacks in recent months, two since we've been here so I guess it was OK to miss Rotto!

We also visited nearby Elephant Rocks and Ocean Beach, just stunning spots. The Australians seem to do things so well, no tacky seaside spots for them! Look at the pristine waters mercifully free of hot dog stands and graffiti. That's one thing we've noticed here, no graffiti, just beautiful public spaces. Why do you suppose their youth are so well behaved? All over Europe and N. America graffiti reigns, another reason we love it here.

Ocean Beach

Tomorrow we hightail it back to Perth before flying out to Adelaide where we meet up with our friend, Keila, who is coming down from Kuranda, N. Queensland to fly to Kangaroo Island with us. We will spend three nights with her before heading back to Tassie (Tasmania). We've notices that the Aussies just love to abbreviate words with ie endings. Examples: grandies: grandchildren, eskies: short for Eskimo (coolers), sunnies (sunglasses), brekkie (breakfast), barbie (barbeque). I'll add to the list as I encounter more examples.
Click below to view map:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=Denmark+WA,+Australia&hl=en&ll=-35.029996,117.421875&spn=58.031111,113.027344&sll=-40.697299,144.84375&sspn=6.879902,14.128418&vpsrc=6&hnear=Denmark+Western+Australia,+Australia&t=m&z=3

More About Whales

The size of a small airliner!

It was a cold stormy day and we headed to Albany to learn more about whales. From 1951-1978 thousands of humpbacks and sperm whales  were slaughtered here. When we entered the site, it was easy to imagine the carnage on this stormy inhospitable day. Our guide spent 40 minutes leading us around and explaining the process of flensing, stripping off the blubber,  and cooking it down to get the valuable whale oil and whale products. Apparently the waters  of Frenchman's Bay were crimson with blood and seething with frenzied sharks which one person was hired to shoot nonstop to keep them from feasting on the dead whales. The stench was overpowering and impossible for the workers to clean off. Children of workers were teased mercilessly at school. The pay was the incentive, three times higher than other jobs paid in the nearby town. The tour was good for showing us the size of the whales as they had whale skeletons on display. A pygmy Blue Whale skeleton was on display and was the size of a small airliner. Thankfully the whales are no longer slaughtered and though it took a few years, they've returned to this area to raise their young. Several factors led to the closing of the whale station, the cost of crude oil needed to power the boats and equipment rose, the price paid for whale oil fell and the environmentalists led a mighty campaign to stop the slaughter. The humpbacks left here  in mid-October and thankfully we saw them up at Margaret River.
Click below to view map:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=Albany,+WA,+Australia&hl=en&ll=-35.029996,117.883301&spn=7.429001,14.128418&sll=-35.029996,117.421875&sspn=58.031111,113.027344&vpsrc=6&hnear=Albany+Western+Australia,+Australia&t=m&z=6

Valley of the Giants - Tree Top Walk

We came to South Western Australia to do the Tree Top Walk we had read about in Bill Bryson's entertaining travel diary. Here the book was called Down Under but at home our copy is titled Notes from a Sunburned Country. Here is what he says about the giant Tingle Trees: "Well all I can say is that the Tree Top Walk deserves to be world famous. It consists of a series of cantilevered ramps, like industrial catwalks, wandering at exhilarating heights through the uppermost levels of some of the world's most beautiful and imposing trees."

I always remembered that he said he underestimated this tourist attraction and was delighted to find it far surpassed his expectations. So we were here to do the walk and it was worth coming to do. We enjoyed it much more than the Douglas Fir counterpart in BC. What Bill failed to say is that it is managed by the local Aboriginal tribe, and they went to a lot of trouble to erect it without a lot of equipment so as to protect the shallow roots of the trees. It WAS worth coming to see and do, and we also enjoyed the Discovery Walk that takes you on a boardwalk at the base of the trees. They are truly beautiful with huge redwood bases and more interesting tops that the California redwoods - that resemble broccoli spears. We spent about 2 hours mesmerized by these friendly looking giants.
Click below to view map:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=Walpole,+WA,+Australia&hl=en&ll=-34.976002,116.729736&spn=3.717743,7.064209&sll=-35.029996,117.883301&sspn=7.429001,14.128418&vpsrc=6&hnear=Walpole+Western+Australia,+Australia&t=m&z=7

Karri Forest - On to the South and World Rugby Final

We headed south from Margaret River stopping only briefly to walk in the famous Karri Forest. As it was Sunday we commented that we were in a soaring cathedral of awe-inspiring trees. We then had a pretty boring drive to Pemberton where the lady in the tourist information office expressed disappointment that we only intended to stop for lunch. We could see her point, after our drive this area really did look interesting. She tried to interest in a winery lunch but as we had about 1 1/2 hours more to drive we opted for the Lavender and Berry Farm. We sat under a canopy as the rain poured down, enjoying pumpkin soup and  huge herb scones with fresh creamery butter. Their specialty here is a pancake dessert with berry sauce and a dollop on ice cream, however we saw one and I decided to pack as I am determined not to pack on the pounds on this trip as I did the last time.  It is just so difficult to get them off. I guess Ireally  should have passed up the butter!

We departed in the pouring rain and stopped for groceries in Walpole. When we bought petrol we talked to the proprieter of the Supermarket/Petrol Station explaining that we planned to watch the World Rugby Final when we got to Denmark - New Zealand vs France. He looked at the clock and commented that as it started 5 minutes hence, so he didn't think we'd see the first half but we could listen on ABC AM. So we drove as fast as possible and arrived in Denmark 45 minutes later after trying to make sense of the game (me) on the radio. We found Poppy's Guesthouse and Gemma very kindly switched on a beautiful big TV so that we could watch the remainder of the game. I must say it was certainly easier to understand visually rather than aurally! France did really well but couldn't break the NZ defense. We thought they dominated the second half and horrors if it had gone on much longer the Kiwis might have lost. But time ran out and joyfully the All Blacks got their long awaited victory after 24 years with a score of 8-7. Fox-tel rebroadcast the game immediately so we could see how the All Blacks had dominated the first half. Click below to see location:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=Denmark,+Western+Australia,+Australia&hl=en&ll=-34.957995,117.355957&spn=7.43552,14.128418&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=23.430526,56.513672&vpsrc=6&hnear=Denmark+Western+Australia,+Australia&t=m&z=6

We thought the victorious New Zealanders were fairly restrained compared to how North Americans would have reacted. Remember there were riots in Vancouver when the Canuks failed to win the Stanley Cup. There probably would have been riots if they had won too! It was really touching to see the team receive their gold medals, and my brother-in-law responded to our congratulatory email saying that Monday was declared a national holiday in NZ and that the entire country was celebrating; there would be mighty hangovers in the next few days. He told us that New Zealanders could finally get back to thinking of something else as this game had dominated the collective New Zealand psyche.  The All Blacks were victory-parading in Auckland on Monday. We wish them well.

Wise Winery

After the whale watching we headed back to Cape Naturaliste to Wise Winery for lunch. The chirpy servers at the tasting bar had about 20 wines they wanted us to try and were very good at keeping track of all the potential customers at the very busy bar. They don't charge for tastings in this area by the way, one of the few places we've been where this is true. We made it through the list of whites but headed off for our lunch reservation promising to hit the reds after eating.

Calla Lilies growing wild!

Sugarloaf Rock

The renowned restaurant featured Italian foods so we opted for two different risottos. I tried the Pinot Noir and Duncan opted for the Chadonnay he had just tasted. The food was excellent but maybe the portions were a bit large so we skipped dessert and further wine and headed back to the Cape to at least begin the 3.8 km walk to Sugarloaf Rock. The trails in this area are really impressive, all sealed which allows people with disabilities easier access. Though the weather was stormy we pressed on with me in the lead. Duncan wanted to stop when the rain started, but we didn't have far to go to reach the rock so I persuaded him to press on. He said he was slower because he was still drugged from the whale watching trip. We made it to the rock easily and enjoyed great views. We were the only ones on this trail - on a Sunday! It was awe-inspiring.

Floating in the Whales' Playground

Duncan bought his Gravol and good-naturedly agreed to accompany me whale watching. He detests boats and gets sea-sick easily. After the trip to the Great Barrier Reef in 2010, I never thought he'd even agree to take the Toronto Island Ferry again. We got to Dunsborough to catch our boat quite early so saw a bit of the town and knocked back our a.m.flat whites-double shots before heading for the boats. A New Zealander taught us to ask for double shots to get that wonderful rich flavour of freshly brewed coffee. Te Aro on Queen St. in Toronto, owned by New Zealanders gives double shots without asking by the way.

We were ferried to the Naturaliste Charter, the Cetacean Explorer, along with 32 other potential whale watchers. Our captain, a former Taliban hunter-equipped with the binoculars to prove it, explained how to recognize the blows and footprints and whizzed us out near Cape Naturaliste where we had hiked for about an hour the day before. We were certain we had seen whales from the shore, but I really wanted to see them close up. Before too long the giants were breeching and diving near us so the captain slowed the boat so as not to stress the mothers and calves. Now don't get excited, they weren't exactly leaping from the waves, just gently breeching. We then moved to another location as required by law. The boats can only stay briefly in the nursery area favoured by these pairs. We saw about 15 whales, and the sight brought tears to my eyes. It was amazing to be out there floating among them, this was one of life's great privileges for which I am most grateful. Whaling stopped in West Australia in 1978, and the humpback numbers have increased to 40,000. The Great Right Whales are still endangered, not so lucky, according to our guide they number only 1000.

To be sure we had our money's worth the boat headed close to shore where we also saw a herd of New Zealand fur seals and  some lively dolphins.  We could see these much better than the ones we saw in Bay of Islands, NZ. Our photos of the creatures aren't great as it's really difficult to capture them. on film as they dive ad disappear. To compensate, I've included a really interesting video of a humpback that was freed from a net - not here though.

What a day! It's going to be hard to beat this experience. It was fairly calm out there so Duncan probably drugged himself unnecessarily, but he enjoyed the experience too - as much as he could.

Margaret River

Busselton Jetty

We made our way to the Margaret River area to relax and taste some wine. On the way we stopped at Bussleton for lunch. The beach is beautiful and there is a quaint jetty with a little train that takes tourists to the end. All in all it's very picturesque and tastefully done and the weather is beautiful.

We hiked for an hour at Cape Naturaliste to try to see the migrating humpbacks from the whale watching stations. On the way we met a fellow who told us there were "tons of them" out there! We had no luck until the second viewpoint. We kept meeting this Italian girl who kept scoffing and claiming what we were seeing was dolphins, not whales.  I was pretty sure they were whales, but I'd like to get up closer.

We picked up a few groceries in Dunsborough and talked with a helpful Aussie clerk in the wine store who gave us a list of his favourite wineries and activities. "See the majestic Karri forest," he suggested with great enthusiasm.

Waterfall Cottage View

We then proceeded to our cottage in Margaret River. We've allowed only three nights in this area because we were supposed to stay with an ATC member who cancelled on us.because of family illness. (Three nights is the ATC limit.) I suspect this will not be enough time because this is a gorgeous area with innumerable wineries and  a foodies' paradise. I found Waterfall Cottage on the internet before leaving Toronto, and as it turns out, the owners have a complex of cottages here, but each is discreetly positioned so no worries. We rented one that is bigger than what we need in order to have a water view. It turns out, this view is of a man-made pond, and the eponymous waterfall is across the road, but this complex is very attractive. The cottage reminds us of one of the best National Trust cottages in the UK, artfully designed and finished. It has  solid walls, some nice stained glass windows and entire glass walls on two sides that  afford beautiful views of the surrounding landscape with the pond and resident ducks in the distance.

Ring Neck Parrot

Fairy Wren

The birds here are exquisite, fairy wrens, ring neck parrots, kookaburras, New Holland honeyeaters, Australian magpies, grey fantails and a few others we haven't been able to identify. The birds in Australia really take all the prizes for being the most colourful and entertaining. I put out some seeds but couldn't persuade them to stay long enough to take photos. I even got up early one morning and sat outside with the camera, but the birds were too wily and flew off when I got close. There are also supposed to be bandicoots here but we'd need to be looking for those at night. One morning I saw a joey hopping in the woods nearby. He bounced quite close before returning to his mother and hopping head first into her pouch. Magic!

Vasse Felix Winery

Our second  day we visited three wineries, Cape Mentelle, Vasse Felix and Cullen. They were all wonderful, but Vasse Felix was the most spectacular. We bought bottles of their Chardonnay and Cabernet Merlot considering them exceptional and good value to boot. Sadly Cape Mentelle, a label we've purchased many times in Toronto, was bought out by the luxury Louis Vuitton/Hennesey group and their prices have gone sky high. Their Cabernet Sauvignon was $84 a bottle. Vasse Felix prices are $20-30 per bottle, more in line with our budget. We also visited a chocolate factory and a gourmet shop for olives so we're all set for a nice dinner chez Waterfall #5.
Click below to see location:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=Margaret+River,+Western+Australia,+Australia&hl=en&ll=-34.016242,115.136719&spn=58.623514,113.027344&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=23.430526,56.513672&vpsrc=6&hnear=Margaret+River+Western+Australia,+Australia&t=m&z=3

Freemantle aka Freo

Eat Your Heart Out, Doug!

We are currently in the seaside port of Freemantle or Freo to the locals. I’ve not been in a great mood here, because I know I’m missing Rotto or Rottnest Island, just a half hour boat ride away. We don’t have time to go there and I’ve seen the postcards and I want to go! We’ve just come for one night before heading to the Margaret River, and the disadvantage of always booking ahead is the lack of flexibility when a place like Rotto looms. I’ll have to content myself with the mainland beaches as we make our way. Freo has a waterfront ferris wheel that Doug Ford , the brother of Toronto's current notorious mayor, would envy. Isn't it marvelous? There is only one person riding it, so it's probably not the cash cow that Doug Ford might predict!

At the recommendation of our B & B hostess, a young German girl from Berlin who mans the desk, we took the Torchlight Tour of Freemantle Prison. Once we had signed up I was in a very bad mood. I didn’t even enjoy the Port Arthur Prison in Tasmania and that was very authentic, why was I going on this obviously touristy tour?

Prison by Day

I have to admit it was funny and a little bit scary too. We were given small flashlights or torches to light our way and create a Hallowe’en atmosphere. They haven’t repaired all the holes, ruts etc. to maintain a more authentic experience. In spite of shining mine on the ground, I still managed to stumble on the stairs coming down from the gallows and nearly break my own neck!  Actors jumped out of cells and dark corners to threaten us with the lash and solitary confinement. I was really glad we weren’t taking this tour with a group of screaming teens! The adults in our group giggled slightly embarrassed to be doing this just as we were.

Gallows by Night

The city of Perth was not settled by convicts but eventually the few settlers had to send back to England to request some because they had no one to do all the hard work.  This prison housed some of them but was then converted to a maximum security prison for the local scoff laws and hardened criminals. Our tour highlighted the grotesque aspects of prison life and if we want we can take three other tours so that we will be experts on great escapes, tunnels and doing time. For only $99 we could spend the whole day here. We think we’ll move on...

A Word About Wildflowers

On our last trip to Australia Sue Wood, ATC host from Melbourne, told us about the spectacular displays of wildflowers in Western Australia and the beautiful Indian Ocean beaches. She told us that people come from all over the world to walk in the fields of flowers in spring. We’ve timed our trip to see the display, and the highlight of our visit to Perth was King’s Park. The wildflowers in their infinite variety were stunning. Admittedly King’s Park is a Botanical Garden but we took a tour with a very knowledgeable guide and had an excellent introduction not only to the flowers but the trees. Did you know that there are 24,000 species of wildflower in Australia and that 12,000 of them grow in Western Australia? Or that they are pollinated not only by bees but birds and animals as well? That is why some flowers grow so close to the ground to attract creatures like the honey eating possum. It’s nice to know the possum serves a purpose in Australia, because it is absolutely reviled in New Zealand. Kiwis make beautiful sweaters, hats, mitts, socks and scarves from its fur!

We returned twice to this gorgeous park to walk its trails and enjoy meals at the very excellent Botanical Cafe with views out over the Swan River and downtown Perth. Tourists can actually take a free bus to reach it. Now how friendly is that? Everywhere we’ve gone so far, people in shops and restaurants ask how we are enjoying our trip and unlike their counterparts in North America with their zombie-like, “Have a nice day” at the end of all transactions, the Aussies (and New Zealanders too) really seem to care. We love it here.

Nincompoop Nearly Nicks Knickers

Joan and Neville

This time I was the nincompoop, and I really mean knickers this time. We stayed in Burswood, Western Australia near Perth airport with Affordable Travel Club hosts, Joan and Neville Watts, for three nights. Affordable Travel Club members agree to provide bed and breakfast to other members for a very nominal fee. The main advantage of the club is that it affords members a chance to meet locals when travelling. Throughout our trip we will stay with three other hosts in Australia and New Zealand. On our last trip to the Antipodes in 2010, we stayed with two ATC couples and these visits were highlights. The Australians outdo one another, and I swear it would be worth travelling this entire country and staying exclusively with ATC members just to experience their extraordinary hospitality.

Night View of Perth

Joan and Neville have a beautiful condominium tucked behind the Burswood Entertainment Complex that features a famous casino as its centrepiece. They have an amazing view of Perth in the near distance. I have to say that even ‘me own mum and dad’ had never gone out of their way to treat me so well. Besides the requisite B & B, Joan and Nev loaned us their bikes, fed us dinner and Joan even did our laundry which brings me to the knickers story.  When I retrieved my clothes from the drying rack, I inadvertently pinched a pair of Joan’s knickers. Luckily Joan noted their absence and asked if I might have mistaken hers for mine. Sure enough I had, I should have noticed - hers were a bit skimpier than my modest briefs. All is well however, I returned them somewhat shamefaced. Sorry about that, Joan..
Click below for map:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=perth+australia&hl=en&ll=-31.952162,116.015625&spn=108.496929,226.054688&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=23.430526,56.513672&vpsrc=6&hnear=Perth+Western+Australia,+Australia&t=m&z=2

More examples of Antipodean Humour

Some of you have already seen these ads but they are excellent examples of the friendly rivalry between Kiwis and Aussies.



Translation for those of you who need help with the Kiwi accent:

Child #1: What're you doin this weekend?
Maori Child: I'm putting up a retaining wall.
Child #1: Doin it yourself?
Maori Child: Na, I'm gonna get some bloke in.
Child #1: Aw, come on mate, do it yourself.
Maori Child: She's pretty big job.
Child #1: You'll be right.
Maori Child: You reckon?
Child #1: We can knock it over in half a day.
Maori Child: Yea?
Child #1: Get a couple of mates around. Hey Jonesy.
Jonesy (wearing the Australian football colours): Ha?
Child #1: Give us a hand with a job on Saturday.
Jonesy: Mate, you're dreamin.
Maori Child: Aussies!
Child #1: No surprises there.
Announcer: DIY It's in our DNA.

Australia gets its own back!

We were in Auckland and left just before the NZ All Blacks  beat the Australian Wallabies in the World Rugby Cup semi-finals. NZ meets France for the final game on Sun. Oct. 23 at 7 p.m. NZ time. We'll keep our fingers crossed for the All Blacks - they haven't won the cup since 1987!

Kiwi Sense of Humour

We've commented in the past about the delightful Kiwi sense of humour. Take a look at the Air New Zealand Crazy about Rugby safety video to see what we mean. This is the only airline safety video that people actually enjoy watching.

Knickers Nicked by Nincompoops!

Imagine my surprise upon arrival in NZ to found two or three pairs of trousers missing from my luggage!  Not really knickers but I did get your attention - didn't I? I'm travelling lighter than usual so this theft has left quite a dent in my wardrobe. I'm checking to make sure they are not at Hale Puko'o but I'm 99% sure they are not. I remember packing my black jeans, my indispensible black jeans ,on top of my pile of clothing. All women of a certain age know how difficult it is to find jeans that fit - it can take months!

We arrived at Auckland, NZ after an overnight flight from Honolulu and didn't expect the showery weather to improve while we were here, but it has cleared and the sun has been shining through the clouds during our entire stay. We've had a lovely two days here visiting wineries, country farm markets and Dorothy's 10-24 store in Warkworth, a neighbouring town. Dorothy was thrilled that I was able to replace my jeans with a pair of hers, and she even offered to stay past closing time to alter the hems! We insisited that we would pick them up the following day and when we arrived she'd even left us some chocolates. These friendly New Zealanders never cease to amaze me - friendliest people in the world in my opinion.
From the road the views reminds us of the best parts of pastoral England, rolling green hillsides dotted with sheep, goats and a few cows and horses. Of course the dense vegetation is 100% NZ with palms, kauris, NZ flax and lots of spring flowering trees. The sudden showers that appear and disappear remind us of England too.

Muesli with Preserved Winter Fruits

Because we arrived at 6 a.m. we were in Matakana by 9 a.m. a bit too early for our B & B, so we stopped at the Honey Cafe just off the highway. Duncan commented that often cafes don't tempt him with the contents of their display cases, but he said he could have eaten any of the items on offer at this one. Because we didn't eat much on the plane and had been up all night, we decided to have some breakfast. I opted for the banana cinnamon honey porridge (ultimate comfort food) while he went for the homemade muesli with preserved winter fruits. As you can see from the photos, we really "lucked out" by stopping here. Look at the beautiful presentation and the food tasted as good as it looks too.

I had a big grin on my face. It feels so good to be back in New Zealand, even with very limited pairs of trousers. Kia Ora.

Vendor weighing tamarillos

We began the next day at the Saturday Matakana Farmer's Market at 8 a.m. It was a buzzing hive of activity, obviously important to the locals who flock there for flat whites and no end of culinary treats. Too bad we are here for only two days, we would have been quite happy to stay a week and avail ourselves of local fruits, veggies, honey, jams, pickles and chutneys, mustards, cheeses, oysters, smoked fish, sausages and beautiful bouquets of roses. This is a foodies, paradise with very high standards.

We love the Kiwi consideration too - organizers warn people twice not to bring dogs into the market, but then offer to babysit their dogs for them while they shop! Another business offered cozy rugs to cover the knees! We had to content ourselves with double flat whites and ginger slices.




One of the wineries we visited today, Brick Bay, had a sculpture trail that we hiked for over an hour. It's beautifully done and the sculptures were varied and inspiring. Though we didn't eat in the glasshouse dining room, there were lots of happy customers. We tasted the wines and they were excellent especially the Pinot Gris.

Its been great to touch down in New Zealand however briefly to recover from jetlag and break up our journey and look forward to returning in November when the weather warms up a bit. We're off to Perth, Australia and balmy temperatures. The waiter at our restaurant tonight told us the weather should be brilliant in the .Margaret River Valley, another destination.

Click to see our location outside Auckland:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=Matakana,+Auckland,+New+Zealand&hl=en&ll=-36.354951,174.715576&spn=1.827118,3.532104&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=23.430526,56.513672&vpsrc=6&hnear=Matakana,+Auckland,+New+Zealand&t=h&z=8

A Word about the Hula

We learned about the hula from one of the chatty guides, BJ, on our mule trip to Kalaupapa. This jovial chap informed us that it's not about babes in grass skirts. The hula actually originated here on Moloka'i and was initially performed only by males as a sacred dance. Women were considered too "impure" to participate. He didn't say when this concept changed but while here we saw the dance performed by modestly attired females. Click below if you'd like to see the traditional version.

Tree House for One Week

We have nearly reached the end of our week on Moloka'i - The Friendly Isle. We chose this island because it appeared to be less tourist driven, and we were certainly right about that. We arrived via Island Air at the sleepy little airport - very different from the one on Kauai'i. Charity, the receptionist at Alamo Rental Cars, shook our hands and welcomed us to her island home. Locals are proud of the fact that there is actually very little to do here other than to relax and enjoy the warmth of the people and the beautiful natural sights, the mountains and cliffs, the beaches, sunrises and sunsets.

We weren't sure if we would do any off track driving on the red dirt roads we saw as we flew in, so we upgraded to a 4WD Jeep Wrangler which in the end we really didn't need; the limited number of paved roads are good and pretty much cover the island. However we both enjoyed driving "the monster" that gave us a something akin to a bird's eye view of the road.

Hale Puko'o

We arrived at our house at the 16 mile road marker - Hale Puko'o and it was better than it appeared in the photos. A light airy nest in the trees with a lanai that runs the length of the house at the back  is surrounded by beautiful swaying palms. The bedroom has been excellent for sleeping with the "trades" lulling us to sleep and waking us each morning. It's been very pleasant listening to the occasional morning shower too.

As there are few restaurants on the island, I've prepared most of our simple meals which we've enjoyed eating in our aerie hideaway. Tropical fruits and macadamia nuts are abundant and we've feasted on  them alone, in granola, salads and desserts.Purdy's Nut Farm and Kumi Organic Farm were some of the few sights we visited aside from Kalaupapa.

Our Beach with view of Maui in the distance

The eastern part of the island, our location,  is surrounded by a natural green reef which makes for safe swimming. There has been a swell for a few days but today, our last full day, was  perfect, and we swam and lounged in deck chairs on the beach enjoying the fiddler crabs that scuttled at top speed over the sand and the views across the water of neighbouring isles, Maui and Lanai. Ah, life couldn't be better. We love beautiful Hawaii!
Click the link to see where we are located:
http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=P%C5%ABko%E2%80%98o,+HI,+United+States&hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=21.366129,-156.796875&spn=2.112615,3.532104&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=23.430526,56.513672&vpsrc=6&hnear=P%C5%ABko%E2%80%98o,+Maui,+Hawaii,+United+States&t=h&z=8

Thanksgiving in a Sacred Spot

St. Joseph's established by Father Damien

interior of St. Joseph's

Today is Canadian Thanksgiving, and we are very far from home and our traditional turkey and pumpkin pie. We arose at 6 a.m. in time to have breakfast before heading off to catch the Moloka'i Mule Ride on the Kalaupapa Trail that descends a 1780 foot cliff to the Kalaupapa Settlement, a former leper colony. The treacherous  yet stunning trail  is 3.2 miles in length and has no less than 26 switchbacks, not for the faint of heart.

Duncan and I read the book Moloka'i by Alan Brennert before taking this trip in anticipation of visiting the site . It is the fictional account of a young girl exiled to the leper colony, surrounded mostly by ocean and cut off from the rest of Moloka'i by the awe inspiring verdant cliffs. The former fishing village, was home to Native Hawaiians for centuries; they were displaced in 1865 and again in the mid-1890s. The area was transformed  by King Kamemhameha V to a place of exile for the unfortunate Hawaiians who suffered from Hansen's Disease commonly known as leprosy. In 1873 a Belgian priest, Joseph DeVeuster, commonly know as Father Damien arrived and spent his life ministering to the residents of the villages of Kalaupapa  in the west and Kalawao in the east. before succumbing the illness himself in 1889.  Prior to his illness, he  ministered to the people in "topside" Moloka'i and two of his churches, St. Joseph's Church and Our Lady of Seven Sorrows are right down the road from the house we are currently renting. Father Damien, much revered on the island, was canonized in 2009 making him the first Hawaiian priest elevated to sainthood. The small white churches are unpretentious and charming in their simplicity

Buzzy Sproat with Smoky

To get to the colony one must hike down the steep trail, ride a mule or fly at considerable expense. We weren't sure the trail would be safe or whether we were up to such a hike because many locals billed it as brutal so we opted for the mules. Chevy and Elvira, were individually chosen  for us by Buzzy Sproat, the owner of the mule farm. I don't know how he does it but Buzzy has the uncanny ability to match  mule to tourist, and he certainly succeeded in our case. Dunc's mule was slow, steady and reliable and mine leaned toward the impatient side, frequently snacking and preoccupied with ensuring that none of the other mules had a chance to push her out of line. Sounds like us, doesn't it?

Claudia on mule

Riding the mule was easier than I imagined, I just had to hang on and enjoy the view, occasionally offering encouragement, particularly on the ride back. I admit to feeling pretty guilty as 18 year old Elvira heaved up the steep precipices with me, not a leadweight but not exactly a featherweight either,  on her back.

view at Kalawao

The natural site is exquisite as you can see from the photos, and we were thankful that we had the opportunity to go there today of our free will unlike the 8,000 souls who had no choice between 1865 and 1969 when the miracle drug sulfone provided a cure for those who were in the early stages of the disease. There are currently four residents with leprosy who chose to stay in this spot rather than relocate. The disease was more advanced in them and thus arrested but not cured. Many others chose to stay but have since died. Because they were poor their graves were marked only with wooden crosses that have disappeared over time. This is a sad chapter in Hawaii's history, people were taken from their families and then intentionally forgotten because of the stigma of the disease. Most records were burned in a fire 20 years ago so it would be hard for families to trace their relatives even if moved to do so.


We had a 1 1/2 hour tour of the two villages and ate lunch looking out over the ocean at what must be one of the best views in the islands  before returning to the ranch. We stopped at the Hotel Moloka'i for a Mai Tai and enjoyed looking at the sun shining on the water between the islands of Moloka'i and Lanai. This evening while looking at our photos from the day we felt more reverance than we usually do on our national holiday. Kalaupapa is administered by the National Parks Service but restoration work is very slow due to limited funds and an uncertain future. The land down there is divided and our guide said that when the last residents die, no one knows what will happen to the site. There are even rumours of building a luxurious resort which would surely be abhorrent.  Perhaps I should drop a line to Obama...

A Trip to the North Shore to see the world famous Banzai Pipeline

We awoke to rain showers and cloudy skies and were glad we went swimming yesterday. We decided to spend the day seeing more of the island. We headed up the east coast thinking we'd return to swim if the weather improved. We looked out for Giovanni's Shrimp Shack - one of the most popular in the guide book, but hunger prompted us to stop at the Yellow Shrimp Shack - a canary yellow caravan with a smiling woman who invited us to make our order and sit inside our out. I opted for coconut shrimp and Dunc went for the garlic prawns - suck, peel and dip. Those of you who know Duncan, know that he is somewhat fastidious and was slightly uncomfortable with these instructions. He didn't suck, but he did peel and dip. Fortunately I had my trusty Wet Ones wipes and came to his rescue at the end of the meal. The shrimp was delicious and we sat at roadside tables outside Ching's (general store) with tourists and a few locals.

Next stop, a local fruit stand at the edge of a small tropical fruit farm. There were several sellers but we chose to patronize only a couple. One young boy and his mother won the prize for the best personalities and friendliest service. They were chopping coconuts with a machete and serving a group of Korean tourists who arrived on a small tour bus. The bus driver was obviously well known to them, he chattered and passed out slices of mango. Every passenger was drinking cold coconut milk right out of the husks with a straw and though we passed it up at first, even we decided to try some - it looked like so much fun. It was refreshing, and the boy obliged by excavating the flesh for us to take home. I asked the woman how to prepare it and she said - just eat it. I grated it on the salad I made from their delicious juicy mango and pineapple slices, topped with a passion fruit and lemon dressing I concocted spontaneously. Yum!

The Banzai Pipeline is nonexistent except during winter. This is the place where the coolest surfers flock in winter to catch the most dangerous waves. The surf boils and waves roll and look like pipes. Risk-taking surfers keep the life guards very busy, and a local shopkeeper told us it's like a circus in the town for three months. We saw a few swimmers in the calm waters, but enjoyed spending two hours in Hale'iwa, a town that reminded us of Hanale'i on Kuai'i. Lots of T-shirt shops, technicolour shaved ices and juice bars. We did our Christmas shopping, in search of the coolest gear for our Kiwi relations, whom we will join in December at the end of our trip.
Click link to view map: http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=Haleiwa,+HI,+United+States&hl=en&ll=21.588489,-158.112488&spn=1.054743,1.766052&sll=21.474795,-157.738953&sspn=0.527792,0.883026&vpsrc=6&hnear=Haleiwa,+Honolulu,+Hawaii,+United+States&t=h&z=9

Obama's Winter Whitehouse

Would you believe it? We've landed at the most beautiful beach in O'ahu that was the site of Obama's Winter Whitehouse in 2008 and 2009. A local shopowner who was running a recording of one of Obama's speeches when we were browsing, confirmed that the Secret Service operatives closed off the beach to locals while the President was in residence. The beach is located at Kailua Beach Park with an unforgettable view of Moku Nui - the twin islands. We hiked to the adjacent beach Lanikai, voted #1 beach in Trip Advisor, but I vote for the former rather than the latter which is flanked by private homes with Do Not Trespass signs posted on the perimeter. We reconnoitered in the a.m. and returned in the p.m. to enjoy swimming, bobbing really, in the exquisite turquoise-hued ocean. No riptides, no curls, not a Banzai Pipeline in sight. This is the ocean to be enjoyed by the junior and senior sets alike. Small children digging to China and seniors smiling and feeling very fortunate to have found themselves here.

Obama's Winter Whitehouse with 5 bedrooms and 5 baths rents for $3500 a night or $75,000 a month - a bargain for the prez, I'm sure, but somewhat out of our price range. If you'd like to see his digs, paste this link into your browser http://www.vrbo.com/327868 We walked the beach to try to see it but weren't sure exactly which gated property it was. As you can see the owner has bragging rights so I doubt Obama will be staying there again. It seems he didn't make it in 2010; too many crises, I expect.

We are happily ensconced in a cozy studio cottage owned by a local artist, Suzanne Ball, who paints and makes lovely pottery. We had a harrowing trip in the dark upon arrival, getting lost almost immediately upon leaving the airport. Fortunately, unlike our experience in Sydney, Australia arriving during the Fri. p.m. rush hour, we arrived here on Sun. p.m. and were able to sort ourselves out after about 20 minutes. When we finally made it to the house, there were no lights - I guess Suzanne figured we'd arrive during daylight - so did we actually. We stumbled around with all our bumpf and miraculously found our spot. Can you believe there was a fellow Canadian in another unit - from Moosejaw? Wonders never cease! He told us the place was beautiful, complete with designer pool and hot tub at the back. Next morning we confirmed that this Canadian military man knew his stuff and enjoyed our homemade granola out by the pool in the Hawaiian sunshine. It feels sublime to be back in beautiful Hawai'i.
Click link for map: http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=Kailua,+HI,+United+States&hl=en&ll=21.474795,-157.738953&spn=0.527792,0.883026&sll=49.891235,-97.15369&sspn=23.430526,56.513672&vpsrc=6&hnear=Kailua,+Honolulu,+Hawaii,+United+States&t=h&z=10

On the Road Again

After 1 1/2 years we are on the road again! We fell in love with the South Pacific and decided to return for another visit. On the last trip we had to pass up hiking in the world-famous national parks so this trip out, hiking will be a major focus, though day hikes only - we are beyond the days of hiking hut to hut! We plan to visit Hawai'i on the way out and the way back, allowing some time to explore the islands of Oahu and Moloka'i and returning at the end of our trip to Kauai'i. Because in spite of the feral roosters waking us all through the night and the bullfrog chorus at bedtime, we loved it a lot.

We're flying via Vancouver this time to avoid LA. From Hawai'i we fly to Auckland for 2 nights to recover from jetlag and then wing our way to Perth, Australia to explore that city, the Indian Ocean beaches and the Margaret River Valley. We love the wines from this region, and want to see the wildflowers for which the area is famous. Then on to Kangaroo Island where we meet our friend, Keila, who is coming down from N. Queensland to "couch surf" with us for three nights. From there to Tasmania where we will tour for 2 weeks. We realized on our last trip that we had not allowed enough time for this wild and beautiful place. Then to the South Island of New Zealand where we will spend the bulk of our time before joining friends and family for some time at Christmas. Finally we return to Kauai'i for one week before heading for home in time for the snow. Everyone is surprised we would choose to return to Canada in January, but we love to cross-country ski and January and February are the best months. We also waited three years to enrol in a Living and Learning in Retirement course and anticipate interesting lectures on the subject of documentary film. We'd love to hear from you all so send us emails or comment upon the blog as we trek from place to place.,