What is Earth From Down Under

Earth from Down Under is a blog about our twice in a lifetime retirement visits to the Antipodes with stops in Hawai'i. To stay in touch with friends and family while on our trip, we will post updates as often as possible. (Click on the photos to enlarge them for the full effect.)



Tuesday, November 8, 2011

Bruny Encore

The next day we were off to Bruny but not before we detoured to Cygnet to check out the home village of the “Gourmet Farmer”, Matthew Evans, a former Sydney journalist and restaurant critic who developed an entertaining TV series about his live as a novice farmer in Tasmania. We found out about his  series when we discovered Bruny Island Cheese on our last visit. This is a piece of paradise, a cheese shop filled with rounds of seven kinds of cheese made on the premises. They sport names like tom, raw milk C2, saint, 1792 and otto. O.d.o. is short for one day old, a cheese that is marinated in olive oil with fresh garlic and herbs and oen’s name comes from oenology because the cheese is washed in Pinot Noir before being wrapped in vine leaves.

Matthew featured the owner, Nick Haddow, in one of the shows, and we went to a lot of trouble to track down the very enjoyable DVD and associated cookbook.  Nick worked with cheese makers all over the world before settling on Bruny. Boy the locals are certainly lucky to have him there.

Red Velvet Lounge

delicious Red Velvet lunch
We had been told by the friendly Pigeon Hole couple to try the Red Velvet Lounge if we made it to Cygnet so we decided to make it our lunch destination before catching the ferry. It was worth the detour, in fact we couldn’t believe our luck. Why does Tasmania have such exceptionally good food? Toronto is multicultural and one would expect it, but Tasmania?  It’s currently a mystery to which we must find the answer. We also sampled the locally made chocolate and purchased award winning bacon, a food we almost never eat, wood smoked salmon and “leg ham” at the Cygnet 24 Hour Emergency Butcher. I’ve never heard of a 24 hour butcher before! I was so taken with the beautiful meat counter, their quaint little delivery van and the personalized service, that I forgot to query the name.



We purchased local produce at a shop on the way to Kettering recommended by the rescuing butchers and headed to catch the ferry that only runs once an hour. A short ferry ride took us over to the island, and we stopped first at Get Shucked Oysters for six that were already shucked, then at the cheese shop. It’s a good thing Duncan is more abstemious than I am because I could have bought the entire contents of the shop and better yet stayed there forever. After sampling them all we settled for odo, foccacia made in a wood fired oven and rhubarb honey ice cream in generous sized individual cups. As the ice cream was quite frozen we decided to head for our cottage to eat it there.
Imagine our dismay when we couldn’t unlock the box that held the key when we got to the cottage that was  found with difficulty after a few mistaken turns and a steep drive that required turning 300 degrees and aiming before gunning the engine to make the ascent.  How do I manage to find these places? The neighbours who had followed us up the drive and helped us to find the place, came over when they saw us peering in windows and rattling doors. When they arrived, we were gobbling our ice cream because it had softened sufficiently, and we didn’t want it to melt. As it happens they sometimes clean the cottage for the owners and luckily had an extra key. They later got a revised code and retrieved the other key from the lock box for us. They were angels, what if we had been trying to find the place and get in when it was dark. They informed us that the owners had changed the code from the one they sent us in a letter. Later we found out they had sent us an email  with a revised code that we had overlooked in planning the long trip.
Dunc on the Deck at Dennes Point
The comfortable cottage had a superb view, and we quaffed local wine and ate those oysters flavoured with one of Martine’s lemons from the groaning tree. We watched the sunset and enjoyed the best hot smoked salmon we’d ever had in our lives. Ah this Tasmania is a real treasure.

The next day we drove all over the small island and decided that Dennes Point was a real jewel of a place. We did enjoy an exhilarating two hour hike at Cloudy Bay Beach on the southern tip, but we weren’t sorry we were staying at the greener northern end with the tranquil view over Nebraska beach.
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