Glow Worm Caves

Can you see her face in the mountain peaks?

Our second day in fiordland dawned with cloudless blue skies. We had the morning free so we explored the charming little village looking for long underwear as summer has morphed into autumn. Claudia found some Krazy Eco Bivouac polypropylene underwear at the local camping store. Since we needed some for cross country skiing back in Canada anyway, we each bought the delightful tops and bottoms. Every section is a different colourful pattern, arms, legs etc. Krazies will serve as PJs for the rest of the NZ trip as it’s nippy down here now, much like the beginning of Oct. back home.
We despaired that we were going to caves on this brilliant day, not to Doubtful Sound. The weather was due to close in tomorrow for that trip. We debated about whether to skip the caves in favour of a helicopter ride if we could get one, but frugality willed out – we had already paid for the worms and the boat was leaving before we could discuss the matter any further. We were amusing to our fellow travellers as we grumpily questioned why we were going into caves anyway as we both feel claustrophobic underground. The boat took off with us aboard and the trip across this sparkling glacial lake was fun. Actually the caves and the glowworms were fascinating. The young guides enthusiastically displayed their knowledge about these resourceful little creatures that glow to attract food and emit long strings of saliva to catch any hapless fly or moth that might venture or be washed underground into their limestone grottos. Staring up into the black maw of the cave, the worms glowed like myriad small constellations. Water from the glaciers above rushed down through the limestone to remould the eerie caverns constantly.
On the return trip I asked a young employee who looked like he could have been Maori, whether the Maori have any story to explain the glowworms. He said he wasn’t aware of any but that they had a story to explain the origin of the lake. To summarize: a Maori chief was the only one who knew the secret of a spring that held healing powers for his people. He entrusted the location to his wife when he was called away to solve a dispute between two neighbouring iwi or tribes. He warned her not to disclose this secret location to anyone. He was away such a long time that she took a feckless lover and relinquished the secret when he begged to know. The incompetent lover was unable to stop the waters flowing from the spring rather like the Sorcerer’s Apprentice so Lake Manapouri was created. The wife lay down in misery and was turned to stone and you can see her profile in the mountain.
When we returned to shore, we went to the Green i office (Tourist info) to inquire about helicopter rides. The company that produced the film was fully booked but there was another company with their landing pad conveniently right next door that had space so we happily made our way for an early evening flight over Doubtful Sound with two wilderness landings. Don’t even ask about the price!